Sona

“Modern French, seasonally spontaneous” is the motto at David Myers’ masterpiece of a restaurant. Before there was Comme Ca, there was Sona, an oasis of destination dining on a frenetic stretch of La Cienega that is also home to Norm’s and Trashy Lingerie. Sona filters out the banality of the city with Izabel Lam china, Sambonnet flatware, Riedel stemware, stunning touches of wood, stone and granite, and earthbound colors. The dishes are as pleasing to the palate as to the eye, with each ingredient painstakingly relevant. You might start with rice crusted sweetbreads, apple butter, poached quail egg, and quinoa, then move on to Elysian Fields salt crusted lamb, green tomato jam, and goat cheese spaetzle. It’s that synergy of classical technique and playful spontaneity that keeps the menu perpetually fresh.

TIPS: Corkage fee is $30, but Mark Mendoza’s wine list is so rich and plentiful that there’s no need to bring your own.