Sako's Mediterranean Cuisine

Family Friendly Moderately noisy All Ages

Spice-infused and presented with several sauces, the iskender kebab at Sako's Mediterranean Cuisine, a Turkish restaurant in Reseda, sent me straight back to Istanbul's vibrant Beyoglu district, where the aroma of meat-scented smoke wafts through ancient cobblestone streets. Just off the tony boulevard Istiklal Caddesi, the area is packed with dozens of cafes and rotisserie specialists doling out the country's iconic doner kebab -- slices of meat stacked on a big skewer (similar to the Greek gyro and Arab shawarma) -- and its fancier cousin, the iskender kebab (a plated version).

 Sako's version of the iskender kebab comes out of the kitchen on one of those retro iron steakhouse platters fitted onto a wooden board. But this hokey presentation doesn't detract from the drama of the seasoned ground beef sirloin sliced, wafer thin, from the spit, then piled high on the plate and lightly splashed with a sauce that tastes like fresh tomatoes. Squares of grilled pita absorb the meat and tomato juices. Around it a snowy moat of thick yogurt swirled with browned butter adds a zingy tang and creaminess that knocks the flavor of every bite out of the ballpark.

Linda Burum 5/14/08

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