Restaurant Preview: The Mercantile
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Puro sabor -- Spanish for pure, unadulterated flavor -- is the name of a sprightly 7-month-old Peruvian restaurant on Van Nuys Boulevard. The kitchen lives up to the promise of its moniker, sending out plates that are all about puro saborpuro sabor -- nothing architectural or flamboyant, no foam or bouncy gelée -- just classic Peruvian favorites with powerfully seductive tastes.
This becomes clear with your first order of ceviche de pescado. Cubes of pristinely fresh fish firmed up with a gentle kiss of citrus and chile retain a delicate marine essence. Counterpoints to the heat and tartness are a side of perfectly al dente sweet potato and puffy giant corn kernels.
--Linda Burum, Special to the Times, 8/17/08
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