Ortolan

Chef/owner Christophe Emé brings glamour to the plate and the dining room; this is special-occasion French dining at its most extravagant. Pass through the deep cobalt arch at the entrance, and enter a world of crystal chandeliers, pintucked cream leather, and walls padded in shirred champagne fabric. The bar/lounge in the rear of the restaurant boasts a wall of potted herbs under a domed skylight that can be accessed by a library-like ladder when the chef has a whimsy for some rosemary or lavender. But the food is far from whimsical. Signature dishes include crispy langoustines with basil, chickpea, and a shot of minestrone; seared calamari with oxtail and spaghetti; and marinated hamachi with blood orange. Cheese selections and seasonal specials are consistently ahead of the curve, and desserts like the Ile Flottante with spicy red wine soup and mascarpone sorbet are heartbreakingly delicious. The whole experience makes respectable next-door neighbors Joan’s on Third and Food Court LA seem downright pedestrian in comparison.

TIPS: For a real adventure, ask for the Chef’s Tasting Menu, $125 per person with wine pairing for an additional $75.