Table 8

Don’t be surprised to see leather-clad, generously inked people as you’re on way into Chef Govind Armstrong's stylish Melrose eatery. The menu of California cuisine (and famous steaks) is served in an intimate environment below a neon-signed tattoo parlor. With trendy Comme Ca and Mozza looming nearby, there are a lot of worthy options in the neighborhood, but fans have found it’s more about food than scene here, and the varied crowd can attest to that. The mood is understated chic, and the scheme is a pleasant palette of muted yellows and creams, low lighting and filmy curtains that give off a cozy, warm vibe. The New Zealand lamb is excellent, as are the duck breast and grilled baby chicken. The kitchen does seafood just as well, with a nice local yellowtail and olive oil poached sea trout. And if you trust Oprah’s recommendations, she sang the praises of the grilled cheese appetizer when Armstrong was on her show. For dessert, the vanilla panna cotta with honeyed blueberries is always a wise choice.

TIPS: The lounge area is a fantastic place for both eating off the regular menu and a special lounge menu that offers smaller, casual plates. The salt-roasted porterhouse for two is not on the menu, but you can pre-order it with your reservation.