Matsuhisa

This is Nobu Matsuhisa’s original restaurant, debuting in 1987 – and the one, it could be said, that started it all. Since then Matsuhisa has become a brand unto himself, with an ever-growing roster of restaurants around the world (including Nobu Malibu), and such expansion might lead some to wonder if the concept has been diluted. Not to fear: Matsuhisa knows what he’s doing – and his peculiar yet tantalizing fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavors is still as captivating as ever. The straightforward sushi is excellent, but his regulars can’t get enough of “new-style sashimi” doused with warm olive oil, squid “pasta” with asparagus, and seafood perked up with his signature sauces. As creativity is his thing, the presentation is arresting, and the normally austere Japanese palette of flavors is punched up with garlic, chile, even butter. Reserve a seat at the tempura bar, which serves an omakase (at three different price levels) that includes his latest creations.

TIPS: While the food and the prices are lavish, the ambiance is not; expect a very simple, no-frills space. The tucked-away Omakase Room, with seating for eight, is a special spot for a more intimate meal and a totally different dining experience.