Il Buco Paninoteca

The place is small and simple, but Giacomino Drago (younger brother of Celestino of Drago and Il Pastaio) knows how to create a neighborhood spot that’s big on comfort, food and flavor. There’s not a lot to the ambiance apart from the tangerine-colored Vespa, but the banquettes are comfortable and the staff is warm and personable and makes you feel at home. Along with pizzas that come as thin-crusted as those in Italy, the menu boasts Neapolitan lasagna and a large selection of pastas, as well as such hearty entrees as chicken-thigh stew with potatoes, onions and rosemary, osso buco and a good grilled veal chop. As for the wine, the list here is large, representing California, Italy and Oregon, and varied in price, from $20 to $250. Delicious traditional desserts, like tiramisu and cannoli, are homemade here by the resident pastry chef, not imported from another bakery. In fact, other restaurants come to Il Buco to purchase their desserts.

TIPS: Expect parking to be a bear; regulars recommend looking for a metered spot on the western side of Robertson. Eating al fresco on the sidewalk patio is always lovely, except when the Robertson traffic is so loud as to overpower your conversation.