Jessica Gelt
Lists
The best of Little Ethiopia
Merkato is like the hub of a small village. The place quadruples as a gift shop, coffee bar, "bar" bar and restaurant. The appealingly untidy shop is packed with obscure items such as "parfin" hair oil and fragrant grape hookah tobacco, as well as bulk bins stuffed with dried peas, turmeric, flaxseed and lentils. You could just stop for coffee at the small thatched bar in the back or walk directly into the restaurant, where you'll do well to order a bottle of honey wine called t'ej and a helping of yebeg alicha (mild lamb stew spiced with garlic and ginger, $7.99). The best part? You can choose to consume the meal while perched on a saddle draped in colorful fabric. (Warning: This could make or break a first date.)
The neighborhood's best splurge. Just like the sign says, the meals here are prepared by a woman named Genet, who, as her super-friendly head waiter proudly pointed out, would "never let anyone else near her kitchen." Good thing too. Her food is lovingly presented, particularly her specialty -- doro wot (spicy chicken stewed in a delicate red pepper sauce, cooked with Ethiopian butter and served with two boiled eggs, $16). Genet happily plugs the place that makes her bread -- Rosalind's (1044 S. Fairfax Ave.), an injera bakery attached to a popular restaurant.
100% vegan menu. Ethiopian cuisine is unusually kind to vegetarians and vegans and makes no attempt at replicating meat dishes. But you won't care once you've tasted Rahel's yemisir kik wot (lentils in red pepper sauce, $9.95), yeater alicha (split pea stew with onions and garlic, also $9.95). The juices made from flax and sunflower seeds ($3.95) are an acquired taste, but we're sure they're very, very good for you.
For a more elegant take on fashion, scoot across the street to Safari Ethiopian Store, which features divinely soft, hand-woven and undyed Ethiopian cotton. The lamb-white coffee dresses with colorful trim ($85) or the flowing princess dresses ($250) are straight out of a hipster daydream. Or pick up one of the traditional Ethiopian blankets (gabi, $65) to inspire your own sweet dreams.
As Long as You're in Little Ethiopia, drop into the appropriately named Jah Lambs & Lions International, which smells heavily of (believe it or not) incense. Stock up on woven hats and groovy hoodies, or snag a "B Is for Bob" onesie ($20) for a shower gift.
