Jessica Gelt
Lists
Top 10 Silver Lake brunch spots
A group of busy valets between a 99 Cents Only store and Edgecliff Ave. is the only indication that something very cool exists here. But step through a secluded gate just past the parking lot and you emerge into an oasis: an enormous multi-tiered patio with abundant foliage, wooden tables and plush lounge upholstery. The chocolate, banana waffles and garlic, truffle fries are supremely decadent, and, if you’re so inclined, the full bar will assist in keeping you wrapped in a warm mid-day haze.
When this swank, shuttered hot spot opened up across from Tacos Del Mar three years ago, Silver Lake’s grownups sighed with relief. The décor is cozy California chic, the wine list impressive and the egg dishes downright scientific in execution. Sit at the bar and enjoy a Dusty’s mimosa (fresh-pressed strawberry juice and champagne) or snag a cozy booth and feast on a savory spinach and goat cheese crepe or a fresh fruit salad with yogurt and honey mint sauce.
The tiny taco stand doesn’t look like much from the front, but in back there’s a slender, tree-shaded patio with long, family-style tables, decorative table cloths and plastic chairs. Come for the menudo ($3.95) or the out-of-this-world huevos rancheros ($3.25), but stay for the hidden ambience. Cheapest brunch in the neighborhood without a doubt; and if you’re lucky the cooks will play their lively Ranchero music loud enough for you to hear.
Enter this unassuming, lively, and refreshingly un-hip French café, and it’s as if you’ve been transported to Paris. (It helps if you can avoid looking at Sunset Blvd.). The place is tiny, with just four tables inside and eight outside. Coffee is served in giant saucers and the eggs benedict is, without a doubt, the best in the neighborhood. It’s all about the fresh, creamy hollandaise sauce with just the right amount of butter. candied-walnut salad or a perfectly cooked steak au poivre with a mean green peppercorn sauce.
A dark, kitschy German bar and restaurant, the Red Lion has three elaborately decorated levels, including an expansive outdoor beer garden. The catty servers--almost exclusively female, and clad in short dirndls--are perhaps why customer devotion borders on fanaticism. The champagne brunch is a regular gut bomb. Choose a three-egg omelet wrapped around a mound of greasy home fries with a side of kassler ripchen (basically a giant, pink pork chop), and guzzle the champagne until you wind up like everyone else around you: unaware that a world exists outside and ready to sit around until dinner.
A large corkboard layered with indie rock fliers and yoga pamphlets greets diners upon entry and pretty much sums up the two personality types within. Outdoor tables, ample counter space, straight-forward breakfast fare with veg-friendly options and mind-bogglingly large portions keep the place packed (prepare for a wait on weekends). The service is usually friendly but beware the loud music, which can be unbearable.
A divey diner that dishes up permanent disdain, Millie’s has long been a favorite among the cooler-than-thou set. The décor is band posters, the clientele a who’s who of hung-over and calculatedly unkempt musicians who played Spaceland and the Echo the night before. Service is notoriously shoddy; expect your waiters (one of whom used to be Francis Conroy, pre-“Six Feet Under” fame) to behave as if they have something way better to do. Still, people swear by the scramblers, giant piles of eggs with everything from salmon to tofu to scrapple.
This super-tiny, tucked away gem serves up incredibly fresh, straightforward American cuisine with a focus on mid-western-style down home cooking (albeit, with a distinctly yuppie twist). Think a stack of steak and mashed potatoes on a wide, white platter, sprinkled with chopped green onions and circled with sweet dill crème sauce. Since it’s open from noon to 2 am, brunch is really lunch, but in Silver Lake that’s just normal. There’s no liquor license but you’re welcome to bring your own wine or (like the locals) roll up with a Pabst tall boy.
Housed in a gorgeous, restored Firehouse, the Edendale is all dressed up with nowhere to go. The promise it makes with its airy, vaulted ceiling, long wooden bar and wide-open front leading to a sunny patio is not fulfilled by its over-priced, often bland fare. The Sunday brunch, though, is satisfactory (including scrambled eggs infused with everything from cream cheese to capers to Cajun turkey sausage), especially when eaten on the lush, green patio and accompanied by one of the Grill’s superb cocktails (like their hand made mojitos).
This strip mall restaurant has undergone more transformantions than Madonna, but its current incarnation appears to be a keeper. An astounding microbrew beer menu featuring over 150 bottled varieties--including Arrogant Bastard Ale and Phantom Canyon as well as a rotating cast of tasty draft beers--complement the greasy, meat-filled brunch (“A humongous one pound” New York strip steak and eggs, rib eye and eggs, chorizo and eggs, etc.) Still, why just Good? Why not Great? And why do the servers wear headsets?
