Cynthia Dea
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Best of L.A.'s Little India
At roughly five blocks in length, the lively commercial stretch in Artesia known as Little India is indeed a diminutive version of the sprawling subcontinent. It may only hint at what the country has to offer--14 official languages, two major religions (Buddhism and Hinduism), a diverse array of 5,000-year-old cultures--but it will certainly transport your senses for the day.
Indians are excellent snackers, and in Artesia you can't throw a betel nut without hitting a shop full of sweets and savories. What Rasraj lacks in ambience it makes up for in friendliness. The menus at the snack shops on Pioneer can be overwhelming (we counted 29 items in Rasraj's farsan section alone), but the staff will gladly make recommendations. Or consult the photographs of daily specials that line the mirrors on the walls. The Gujarati thali lunch ($5.50) -- reminding expats of home -- can be found at most restaurants in the area, and Rasraj's special comes with jasmine rice, roti (unleavened bread), puri (a cracker-like flatbread), dal (stewed lentils), a hot pickle and a vegetable dish of your choice (such as the fiery spinach paneer). Keep a mango lassi ($1.99) nearby for when you can't feel your tongue anymore. Be sure to save room for sweets. Choose from the assortment of barfi (a dense, cheesecake-like cake that comes in flavors such as ginger, pistachio and rose; $1 each) if only to say, "I'd like some barfi" to the guy behind the counter.
For a cooler sweet, go to Saffron Spot, tucked deep within the Little India Village shopping center (flanked by a pair of lion statues). Indian ice cream (made without eggs) is called kulfi; flavors run from the traditional (mango and pista, or pistachio) to more exotic tastes such as rajbhog, a mix of saffron, pistachios, cashews, almonds and cardamom ($2.75 for one scoop). A particularly refreshing choice is the "chickoo", a dark kiwi-esque fruit with almost chocolaty caramel undertones. The sugarcane juice is also worth a try, if only to watch how it's made: The juice is pressed out of 2 feet of sugarcane bark in what looks like a wood chipper.
More a corner epicerie than full-service grocery, the store is a one-stop shop for dried goods, Vishnu and Ganesha altarpieces, and a wonderful collection of Amar Chitra Katha comics. The series, dating to 1967, tells epic adventures of the Hindu gods, goddesses and heroes who battle against evil demons and spiritual weakness.
Artesia-adjacent is the Naz 8 Cinema, where locals get their fix of Bollywood. Even if the plot gets lost in translation, the glorious costumes, hypnotic soundtracks and dance moves must be sampled at least once (think "Hindi Idol").
Spa lovers can check out eyebrow threading, the age-old Indian alternative to plucking or waxing. Sona Chaandi charges $7 and also offers henna and more traditional spa services. While you wait, nip into the salon's apparel shop for a pair of elaborately decorated slippers or a sari fitting.
Like many excellent South Indian cooks, the kitchen staff at Woodlands has high culinary ambitions for lowly beans and grains. Magically, they transform them into spice-scented griddle cakes, fragile fritters and yard-long dosai with exotic fillings. If you're coming for lunch, be sure to arrive early--the buffet runs out at 3 p.m.
A favorite of interior designers and wedding planners (and reportedly Gwen Stefani), the four rambling rooms of incense-laden treasures includes housewares, jewelry, apparel, Indian toiletries, prepared oils and miles of fabrics. To that has been added Indian and Southeast Asian antiques, art and one-of-a-kind pieces at prices much lower than you'll find in Santa Monica or on Melrose.
The owners claim their snacks are world-famous. Friendly staffers will tour you through the inner workings of treats like habshi halwah (milk, sugar and ghee simmered in a caldron until thick, then loaded with ground nuts) and cool, milky rasmalai.
