The vibe is democratic at this unfussy yet stylish wine bar. All the wines are priced the same, whether red, white, dessert, or bubbly, and communal tables and couches invite strangers to share food as well as conversation. Though the wine selections chart the globe from Australia to Argentina to Austria, there’s no snobbery involved. As the owners advise, “Don’t worry about what the wine critics have to say. If you like it, then it’s good.” The grilled cheese, however, is slightly pretentious: brie and sliced apples on grilled fig challah from the Challah King of Beverly Hills. But maybe a touch of fussiness is okay. And certain design elements are downright swanky, like the low red lights in the back room and the wine bottles displayed like Lite-Bright pegs behind the bar. You may just forget that you’re in the middle of a mall.