Frankie's on Melrose

Owner Frank Competelli – just call him Frankie – came to L.A. with a dream:  to serve up good Italian fare in a cozy atmosphere reminiscent of his native New York. And fans say he’s succeeded. With Jimmy Darren on the soundtrack and a friendly, accessible wait staff, this is your quintessential neighborhood spot. All the Italian favorites are represented here:  pasta fagioli, ravioli ricotta, fettuccini alfredo and osso bucco. But the real specialty is the seafood, flown in from New England, with live Maine lobsters (the fra diablo is very good), calamari Siciliano and linguini with clams. You’ll think that you’ve really been transported to New York, except when you see they also have very L.A. low-carb specials for lunch, such as steak or fish with steamed vegetables. Frankie is almost always on hand to work the room and greet guests “as if they were my own family,” he says. It’s not inexpensive, but the portions are huge and you won’t leave hungry.

TIPS: The bar is a popular spot for dining as well, with about eight seats. There’s no lunch on Sundays, only dinner.