Not surprisingly, Water Grill specializes in seafood. Not just any old seafood but dazzling and inventive seafood. You’ll find no breaded clam strips here. Instead, the ever-changing menu explodes with an imaginative medley of mouth-watering creations culled from the deep sea and fresh water alike. The entrée names read like food poetry. Dungeness crab cakes with harissa, herbed cous cous and yogurt lime cucumber sauce. Slow-poached Columbia River sturgeon with roasted and pureed beets, warmed spinach and horseradish-celery sauce. Gulp! As if that isn’t enough, Water Grill has its own pastry chef to turn out fresh desserts daily. The lengthy wine list is not to be trifled with either. Part of the new generation of upscale downtown restaurants changing the topography of the area, Water Grill’s interior is defined by art deco decor, wood floors, leather-upholstered seating, quiet booths and modern artwork. The lively bar is an ideal place for walk-ins to sample oysters and appetizers.