Crustacean

Because it offers a natural fusion of Asian and European traditions with results that are healthful, aromatic and aesthetically pleasing, Vietnamese cooking is all the rage in L.A. And with the creation of restaurants like Crustacean to fuel the trend, it's probably here to stay. At this Beverly Hills locale, the food isn't the only aspect of the restaurant that dazzles. The eatery skillfully combines the glamour of French colonial style with L.A. glitz. The dining room is entered by crossing a wooden bridge from a cozy lounge. The marble floor is dominated by a serpentine, glass-overed, koi-filled "stream" that meanders 80 feet past a bamboo garden and around tables adorned with tropical flowers.

Start with a lemongrass-sesame beef satay; prawns rolled in soft rice paper; steamed seafood dumplings with a tamarind-ginger fûmet; or addictive Dungeness crab puffs. Entrées include pan-seared Chilean seabass in a yozu-ginger reduction; delicate prawn-stuffed ravioli; and filet mignon with Vidalia onions.

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