A favorite noshing spot for such hardboiled literary luminaries as Raymond Chandler, James Ellroy and the late Edward Bunker, the Pacific Dining Car has been specializing in juicy slabs of beef since 1921. Located on a seedy patch of 6th Street, the single-story structure, which has grown out and around the original railroad car that started it all, is a grand relic of a bygone age. Even in daylight, the Dining Car’s patterned curtains and plush carpets keep the vibe dim and atmospheric. Rich dark woodwork and green wallpaper define the rambling space, which features several dining rooms open 24 hours and a cozy bar with rustic-themed prints on the walls. The gentlemanly servers sport black ties and jackets, looking like they may actually be old enough to have served a martini to Chandler himself. Order a prime corn-fed U.S.D.A. steak, aged on the premises and grilled to order over mesquite hardwood charcoal, and savor the taste of a true L.A. original.