Ambala Dhaba

This unpretentious restaurant is in the corner of a mini-mall in Artesia, near a number of Indian sari shops and goldsmiths--and a variety of lavishly decorated restaurants. The specialty at Ambala Dhaba is goat (bakra), which the chefs stew in a fiery red sauce. Ambala Dhaba is not one of your luxurious palaces of Moghlai cuisine, adorned with sculpture and brass work and marked by a decorous hush. It's a genuine down-home Indian eatery, so come prepared to line up for a table along with the families who frequent this place. And you should also come prepared for an assault-on-the-senses dining room, lined with mirrors and filled with loud Indian pop music. You eat off plastic-foam dinnerware, and when you're seated, a waiter will bring you a plastic pitcher of ice water with the appropriate number of foam cups. You'll need all the ice water you can get, however, because chefs Gurmail Singh Dale and Lakhbin Singh don't pull any punches with their cooking.

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